A trip to Matheran

29 September 2007

FIRST GEAR, says a squarish sign as you begin the steep climb to Matheran. The 9-km stretch from Neral on Mumbai's central line is easier on the toy train, which crawls 2,500 feet up the ghats. With the rail tracks submerged in mud, I drive on, the clouds kissing the ghat roads and spreading a pleasant chill all the way.

The little yellow flowers you saw in patches become a clamour the higher you climb, as the green valleys on the left melt into the mists. Park here, or gently pass. Stop anywhere on the way, breathe the cool, fresh air, enjoy the mini-waterfalls dotting the hillside, and move on.

You can drive up to Dasturi Naka, beyond which cars are banned. From here, you can hire a hand-pulled rickshaw, get a horse ride, or trek. Damp from a recent shower, the trek up is a pleasure for the nimble-footed. But if you suspect your stamina, don't let ego come between you and a horse. I rely on my feet. The trail winds up through the forest, its tree trunks green with moss, its red earth coloring my shoes. In Matheran, the woods are not just lovely, dark and deep, there are clear road signs too, put up by a helpful Matheran Hill Station Council. It's difficult to get lost here.

Beware of monkeys. Matheran's forests shelter an army of Simians habituated to humans. Some are docile, some quite aggressive. Either way, if you carry open food while climbing, be prepared to share some with them. After climbing for half an hour, I rest beside the rail track overlooking a canyon.

Matheran blooms in monsoons, presenting its mysteries in shades of green -- the dark woods, the deep Charlotte lake circled by forests, the waterfalls. I trudge further up the hill, the monkeys eyeing my tightly-shut backpack, and reach what the locals call the Bazaar.

The hand-pulled rickshaws are available only till Bazaar. From here, the journey is on horse or by foot. The sunrays filtering through the green canopy makes the pleasant chill more enjoyable. The next stop is what is lovingly called a garden. Lie down beneath a big, shady tree and enjoy the fresh, cool air and listen to the whoosh of winds in the valley.

Matheran has several lookout points -- cliff-edges which offer amazing views of the rolling hills and valleys. Locals say that from some of these points, you can see Bombay in the distance on a clear day. It won't take more than a few hours to take a quick tour of Rambag Point, Alexander Point, the Monkey Point, the Porcupine Point and the Echo Point. If you plan to drive back, remember to leave before dusk -- the drive down the steep inclines and hairpin bends in foggy weather may test your driving skills a lot more than the RTO ever imagined.

A quick trip to Matheran leaves you longing for more. Its silence, serenity, cool winds and muddy trails invite you to visit the tiny hill station yet again.