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The
Ladakhi summer is short. Starting in May, it’s over by
August, driven out by gigantic depressions in the Indian
Ocean heralding the onset of the monsoons. Add to this
the restricted accessibility of this region between
November and May when snow blocks all land communication
with the rest of the world, during the fag end of the
tourist season and drag it into early autumn – The
Ladakh Festival.
Visit Monasteries
The monasteries of Ladakh are a repository of their art
and culture. Intricate frescos, colourful friezes, awe
inspiring motifs with demons, dragons, skulls, virtue,
vice, Buddha and his incarnations – all inextricably
linked to one another in baffling combinations. Many of
these monasteries are several centuries old and boast
some original paintings and tangkhas of similar vintage
– Alchi, Likir or Hemis. Thikse, of course, is both –
inspiring and convenient.
Witness a Mask Dance
‘Chhams’
as it is known in Ladakhi is a complexly choreographed
religiously oriented dance drama. Performed by the
resident monks of the monastery in which you witness it.
Go backstage and talk to the elderly lamas (monks): They
will give you its history, and current relevance. Also
the last minute practice, dressing up and expectant air
of excitement has its own infectious appeal. Using
enormously contorted masks representing various
divinities and guardian angels from the Buddhist
pantheon, the dance symbolises a very colourful ritual
the supremacy and permanence of ‘good’. The combination
of complex dance steps to the accompaniment of raw
musical intonations is compelling.
Attend a Mock Marriage
The
Ladakhi Cultural Troupe consisting of professional
artists organises ersatz weddings and other cultural
events that give one an insight into the quaint customs
and traditions of a proud culture. The richness of their
couture and the uniqueness of their jewellery makes for
a fascinating study in ethnic fashions.
Walk the Countryside
A very pleasant experience in the crisp air of autumn
mornings and evenings. If you happen to saunter through
the orchards around Khaltsi you may be lucky to catch
the late apricot ... or early apple! It’s also educative
for children to see rural life in the high mountains.
Talk to the locals and study them as they cheerfully the
Ladakhi summer (aka tourist season) is short. Starting
in May, it’s over by August, driven out by gigantic
depressions in the Indian Ocean heralding the onset of
the monsoons sub-zero Himalayan winter.
Skim the Indus
With
the monsoons behind it and the cooling sun curbing the
snow melt, the Indus is fair game for an invigorating 25
km run down from Leh to Nimmo. Not exactly white or blue
water rafting but fun all the same with exhilarating
scenery all around and scope to catch an odd glimpse of
some endangered animal risking a quick drink by the
riverbank. Leh is bursting with enterprises offering
adventure activities. Talk to any one of them to fix
your one-to-one down the Indus at a reasonable price.
Go Hunting
... for the best bargains in local and Tibetan exotica
and allied craft. With the season closing many
shopkeepers are more amenable to lowering prices
Reaching Leh
It’s a comfortable 6-day drive from Delhi via
Shimla-Manali-Patsio-Pang-Leh along the Himalayan
Highway with a days stop over somewhere in between to
rest & explore. Brisk autumn cold with negligible rain
makes for good going. Or you could trail hair and rubber
driving from Delhi to Leh via NH1A –
Pathankot-Jammu-Srinagar-Kargil.
Pictures & text courtesy Bharat Shahane.
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